first - With Manfredi along the Via Alpina The first stage of the Via Alpina
CROSSING IN FROM A LAZZARETTO PESEK
Sergio Ollivier exposes his personal accompanying version, even virtually, his new friend a hiker.
The my version assumes that the tripper is going to reach Trieste by train and is also equipped to sleep in tents. However, with minimal changes to the program, you might want to use a car and support it with logistics in hotels provide accommodation and breakfast, or encountered a number of farms along the way.
I ask you, friend, hiker, we want to do this together walk? Follow me with this beautiful journey that I propose and I'll know in a large part of my Trieste Karst. I hope you will like.
For starters ... you need to reach Trieste on the day before the beginning of our journey. Arriving early enough we can do well around a visit to the center of Trieste. To achieve Muggia we take the bus n ° 20 (get a ticket from a kiosk), or, if the time you have available allows, walking along the shores of beautiful Trieste, also admiring the great and noble Piazza Unità d'Bersaglieri Italy and reached the pier, take the motorboat "Green Dolphin" will be good for you to contemplate the sea a good stretch of the coast of Trieste. Having to come for a ride on a visit to the center of Muggia, the first Venetian-style city that meets those visiting the coast of Istria. Go in the central Piazza Marconi, runs through the narrow streets, go down to the marina , look around. You may also choose to sleep in Muggia, but I suggest you take the bus instead of No. 7 and get off at the terminus, just before crossing the border of the former Italian-Slovenian-Lazzaretto Ankaran . You have arrived at the campsite where San Bartolomeo, from May to September, you will always find a warm welcome and you can easily fix the tent with all your stuff, who faithfully walks you through the your way. Weather permitting, perhaps, as strange but pleasant variation on the theme of the trek, you can bring satisfaction extraconfinaria a healthy swim in the Adriatic Sea. The simple restaurant the campsite, you can solve, without excessive spending, the problem of dinner. Have a good night's sleep regenerative, because tomorrow we will have to walk a lot.
Sunday, May 31, 2009. Maybe it's better that we get pay, I would say to the 6, it is too early for you, right? Today cammineremo per circa 8 ore e dovremo superare in totale 1200 metri di dislivello in salita. E ' un peccato che non possiamo procedere con più calma, magari dividendo in due giorni questa tappa (ottima sarebbe una sosta supplementare al campeggio che troveremo a Ospo ), ma.. Hai fatto colazione, smontato la tenda, preso il tuo pesante zaino? Sei pronto? Saluta il mare Adriatico e partiamo.
Vedi, partendo da Lazzaretto ci sono tanti modi per dare inizio a questa escursione; sono tutti ben segnalati. Riassumendo: il segnavia cerchiato biancorosso fa parte della traversale n°1 slovena che si concluderà a Maribor , poi c'è la "Vertikal " blue-white Tarvisio and finally leading to the trail crossing of the local white and red rectangular Milje . Unfortunately, all affected by the urbanization of the area and forcing many to the asphalt. Passed an equestrian center, I want to take you instead dismantled immediately after the border, from where a small road that goes up the gentle valley of San Bartolomeo. It 's a good way to start, because the climb is not steep, the vehicular and non-existent, landscape, becoming widely adopted, we reward for early rising. We came to the former crossing point Chiampore : here until the end of 2007 could pass only with a special pass. The abolition of the border allows us access to the highest point, the "mountain" San Michele, altitude 197 meters. Simply aim to reach the inevitable, huge TV antenna. We came to the meadows of the top, you like the view? From here you can see all the way we do today. There, after all, on the height to the north of the horizon, you see the place where we will arrive tonight. Please do not be afraid of the distance, we'll see. We now proceed towards the village you see closest to us, Santa Barbara, but believe me it is worth extending to 1 km. our walk because I can make you lose a detour from Muggia Vecchia, its walls and its sanctuary. Bring out the car camera, the view opens onto the Gulf of Trieste is among the best that we can offer you. The church then old (9 th century, always open): We're going to see his paintings, which experts say date back to the fourteenth century and take a look also to the opposite, where recent excavations have recovered enough remains of houses and valued medieval. And 'what little remains of the old Muggia Here our ancestors lived and defended themselves before the decision to go to the higher priced sea. The entry of Slovenia in Europe returned to the free transit throughout the area, once strictly forbidden. During our first day will always remain close to the border and often as we trail the stones. Vedrai, ti piacerà. Vedi la tabella un po' intimidatoria "a 2 metri il confine" ? Da poco, la gente del posto, che per un paio di metri faceva parte del territorio italiano, può ora recarsi liberamente nel suo cimitero, che si trova 200 metri oltre l'ex-confine. E' stato un importante passo in avanti per i muggesani e anche per noi escursionisti. Per evitarti fatiche inutili, non ti faccio scendere a valle: restando in alto siamo costretti all'asfalto, ma qui il traffico è scarso, l'ambiente distensivo e la vista sempre piacevole. Vedi quante belle ville che sono sorte nei piccoli abitati della dorsale? Il tenore di vita sta diventando piuttosto alto, qui in Slovenia. Superato il borgo di Crevatini , prendiamo a sinistra and, passing in places Premanzano , returning to Italy. Here was the former Santa Barbara secondary pass to us that we needed to avoid local queues summer to international border crossings. We visit the country which is small and secluded, conveniently connected to the bus n ° 32 Muggia. In truth, the Via Alpina officially starts Muggia and goes directly to Santa Barbara, but I hope, even if doing so I had to walk an extra 1 hour, whether they are worth it because I could start from Lazzaretto you know a some of the beauty of the area Muggia. While saving you the short climb to the highest point, where for are still too long recovery excavations of the prehistoric fort of Elleri . There should be a cross-border project (perhaps with European funding) to retrieve the'importante archaeological zone. Let Santa Barbara and we follow the cart track signal, which will bring in quick descent of the former international crossing Rabuiese . After a semi-abandoned quarry sandstone , I'll note that this bridge crosses what was the site of the disused railway line from Trieste to Porec , the famous " Parenzana . While the transit from us has been affected by urbanization, I suggest the theme for another walk, to cross l'Istria interna seguendone il bellissimo tracciato che è stato in gran parte recuperato quale magnifica pista ciclopedonale . Ecco, siamo arrivati alle abbandonate strutture confinarie di Rabuiese - Skofjie . Come vedi la zona è stata alterata dall'inevitabile passaggio della grande viabilità, monopolizzata da infrastrutture turistiche e da un frequentatissimo casinò. Tiriamo subito avanti, è meglio. Passiamo fra i campi per salire direttamente a Plavje . Anche questo paese era attraversato da una scorciatoia stradale secondaria che ci consentiva a noi triestini di evitare le immense file d'automobili nel periodo delle ferie estive. Se hai letto il programma ora dobbiamo salire verso Antignano , which is up there, perched on top of the hill. Agrees that we follow the paved road, although you might choose a cart instead. Fortunately, traffic is nonexistent and the solitary atmosphere is very relaxing, thanks to the steady climb, we have gained with little effort over 300 meters in altitude. Antignano ( Tinjan in Slovenian) is an ancient country that has suffered a lot of migration, that's why the houses very degraded. However, looking at the white church of San Michele has been restored at the expense of the villagers. Too bad for the overall aesthetic of the antenna, but it is inevitable given that the place is too dominant Tutt 'intorno. Ti porto al miglior belvedere del paesetto; ti piace? Da qui lo sguardo riesce a spaziare sul nostro splendido golfo. Nella punta estrema a sinistra si vede fino a Salvore , in Croazia, poi c'è il litorale sloveno, con Capodistria e il suo porto (è l'unico della Slovenia) e per finire l'intero golfo di Trieste con tutto il suo anfiteatro costiero e l'inizio della laguna veneta. Talvolta sullo sfondo si riesce perfino a intravedere le Alpi Orientali. Lo strano sperone che divide il golfo è proprio la penisola muggesana che abbiamo appena visitato. Incantevole, vero? Proseguiamo? Dobbiamo ora scendere nella vallata del rio Ospo; seguiremo il segnavia biancorosso n°1 cross the Slovenian. The massive hole you see on the opposite side was caused by the source of the stream Osp. E 'one of the most typical karst phenomena of my and a paradise for the most talented climbers. Scroll down to the beautiful valley and let's stop a bit 'camp in the village. If you had available an extra day, I would suggest to stop in this camp that is simple, but cheerful and welcoming. Here there is peace, tranquility, the absence of the often chaotic attendance of their campsites along the coast. Ospo was an old country almost abandoned, but as you can see, with the abolition of the border and its proximity to Trieste and Koper and their respective industrial areas, now being repopulated. Outside the compact core characteristic of the old houses leaning against the wall behind it, there is now some beautiful new villa. If you like, with a slight deviation to bring you even closer look at the base of the large cavern, which was defended by walls from the time of danger turkish. Out in rainy periods, even tumultuously, rio Ospo and form a small intermittent lake. Well, we begin the climb: we must raise of 400 meters in altitude. We always follow the trail n. 1: the path gains height, not too outstanding, along the steep rock face. Does it seem to be in the mountains? Yet, look, over there is my sea! I invite you to look out at the next bend on the top edge of the tear of the mountain. It 's a karst impressive, right? Here we are at the top, where the plateau begins, which is also used for grazing. We went to that little village in front of us: it is Kastelec , Italian castle. We're going to find Vlado and mother Mary, are the owners, even friends, one of the farm where I go more willingly. Rural areas but well kept, simple treatment but genuine. I suggest you try the "j ote", our traditional soup or try the classic gnocchi with goulash. But perhaps it would be too heavy for us, right? We still have to walk a lot! We welcome friends of Kastelec and begin to follow the sheep-track. In only half an 'we have now reached the square in front of the castle of San Servolo . For more than a millennium has been the subject of increasingly bitter disputes, given its incredibly dominant position. Destroyed several times, and 'has now been partially restored for tourism. Limits us in accessing the opening hours of the restaurant situated in the round tower, one of the most expensive in Slovenia. When it is opened you can freely enter the courtyard, looking out on the sidelines and join the chorus of wonder of hikers, enchanted by the beauty of the landscape. However to the right side of the castle there is also a viewpoint that offers a magnificent view: the Gulf of Istria, Croatia to the tip Milje , but impresses the great territory protected by a rugged ridge and occupied the city and its industrial infrastructure: is my Trieste, beautifully overlooking the sea and lying at the foot of the Carso . I'm afraid I can never give you a better view than this! The country is on the right you see Bagnoli, where he started the nature reserve of Val Rosandra : will be our next target. It would be interesting to visit the nearby Cave of San Servolo , where legend has lived in a hermitage the patron saint of Trieste, but it is accessible by appointment only. We are always close to the edge of the walls precipitation, but still we are close to the border in Slovenia, and until recently it was impossible to walk around here. Every now also facing the various viewpoints, the view is always very large. We make a short stop at the highest point of the area, where there are remains of military installations: the Carso mountain and we are at 457 meters. The summit is surrounded by a large prehistoric, the pile of stones collapsed is still substantial. We moved just above Bagnoli, where he started this little gem for us is the val Rosandra . It 's weird, true, the existence of this small canjon of rugged rocks, compared with the nearby Adriatic Sea in the background. Now we are careful in choosing the best route: to drop (300 feet below), we should take the marked path No. 37. You seem to be in the middle of the mountains, but do not be afraid, the path is tough but not dangerous. You saw how we passed the first rocky crags, did you like the cave of the ancient inscriptions? But now we go down this track with caution through the big scree. Well, we arrived at Bagnoli higher and this building is none other than the often cited "shelter Premuda . He has now lost its initial purpose mountaineering, because a lot of people come here, attracted by the natural environment and good food handlers. You know that we love deeply Trieste val Rosandra : I carriers in many ways to discover the wonders of karst, the paths are never banal, tell the interesting historical facts related to it, and many other things, but given the short time that we have, we doubt the typical main path. We are taking the "salt route", the caravan route of so many centuries ago. Watch the rugged walls, scree, the wild furrow from Rosandra; is' like going into a small alpine world. Here on the right glimpse the church of Santa Maria in there that resists Siaris more than 800 years. On the left side, between those vertical walls, runs the daring route of a disused railway, which has become a destination for lovers of mountain - bike and more walking. Here's the background now appear to be the waterfall is 35 meters high you know, raggiungiamola. Now change the nature of the ground and within sight of the little group of houses Bottazzo. The restructuring are almost all over the bridge there was the passage of the agricultural frontier, which we once scary and interdiction in transit. It 's a chance that we can now go where we want. But let us pause for a bit 'in the restaurant, there were a couple of managers, such Bepi Zerial and wife, mythical figures of reference for anyone who was in val Rosandra . After a period of stalemate, was finally reopened, and if you can not find a seat, you can conveniently feed both the body and spirit. Have you refreshed enough? We must now lift us up to 200 meters, following path 1. We came to the former railway, built in Austria in 1887. It will be great to follow it, including a continuous succession of tunnels and embankments. But first, follow me a short digression, once banned from the border. On this knoll overlooking the river, there was an age-old castle of which there are only a few walls. Due to its strategic position, was connected with other castles in sight or watchtowers. You'll go on the bike path, the view is now open to the top, less known, the val Rosandra. We reached the village of Draga block, the road ends here but there is often a lot of movement. Many are the houses that have been restored and there is a long time a popular restaurant, "by Mario inn." Even here, though certainly not a budget, you dine and spend the night. Eat something together? I usually take the classic creme Carso, want to try? A few more spartan Walker criticizes me for these my culinary stops, but in my opinion, it is also a way to find a new place and its people. Let Draga, I bring you a vedere la vecchia stazione della "Ferrovia Parenzana ", che è interessante per il suo puro stampo austriaco, ma stranamente è abbandonata al degrado. Sei stanco? dobbiamo raccogliere le forze, perché ora ci aspetta un'ultima salita di 300 metri di dislivello. Per salire usiamo questa bella carrareccia nel bosco: finito il bisogno popolare del taglio della legna, in tutto il Carso la vegetazione sta rapidamente riconquistando il suo spazio. Siamo arrivati in località Pesek ; poco più avanti si trova l'ex valico confinario internazionale di Kozina, molto frequentato da chi vuole recarsi verso la costa dalmata. Anche a Kozina ci sarebbe un piccolo campeggio, utile per un'eventuale attendamento. We should stop for a frugal dinner at a pizzeria or, more spending, the restaurant Pesek. Still half 'hours' walk, and finally arrive at our destination. Almost, almost I would carry the country to the valley floor, Grozzana , because there is a family of beekeepers, friendly people, nice and hospitable, but maybe it's better than directly follow the path 3, our valuable partner in walks than once, if you did not want to run the dangerous risk of trespass. Here we reached the summit of Mount Goli, the end of the climb. Fermamoci and we take a photo, because the view to the gulf is one of the most beautiful. E' per me una soddisfazione camminare seguendo i cippi, ho potuto riconquistare intere zone da esplorare. Era un vero disastro per tutti l'esistenza del sofferto confine: guarda che poco che resta della chiesa di san Tommaso, specie se confrontata con il suo curato cimitero: ancora 200 metri e siamo arrivati alla fine del nostro giornaliero cammino. Questa struttura era una delle tante caserme militari costruite a ridosso del confine. Ora è conosciuto come lo " Zeleni center", ossia Centro nel Verde. Dopo il totale abbandono militare del confine di ormai quasi vent'anni fa, si è salvata dal totale degrado perché fu assegnata a suo tempo alla Casa dello studente sloveno di Trieste, per farne una colonia estiva. Siamo a 600 metri di quota, the secluded atmosphere is very pleasant and healthy, the ideal place for meetings for groups of people are sensitive, particularly with a spirit prepared to reflect and meditate. I know the most active organizer that will give us decent but spartan accommodation for the night, we could even use the kitchen. For we walk, I think that is an arrangement that best fits into our philosophy that hiking. Now that we've settled in, I ask you a question? Did you like what we saw during our short walk of 9 hours? I sure hope so, I could not offer better.
It 's time to rest to recover residual forces.
Lights out! Goodbye my friend, see you tomorrow.
